A quiet lagoon of herons and egrets, and a tiny Byzantine church built for the water beside it.
Orikum Lagoon, also called Pashaliman, is a quiet lagoon where the plain of Orikum meets the Karaburun Peninsula, home to great egrets and grey herons. On its edge stands the Church of Marmiroi, a tiny Byzantine church first mentioned in 1307. Allow about an hour, or combine it with Oricum.
Why the church stands by the water
Where the plain of Orikum meets the first rocks of the Karaburun Peninsula, the bay softens into a lagoon. Its other name, Pashaliman, means “the Pasha’s harbour”, but today it belongs to the birds. Great egrets and grey herons stand motionless in the shallows, migrating waders stop to feed in spring and autumn, and eels and shellfish live in the water. The lagoon is part of the Karaburun protected area and an Important Bird Area.
On its edge stands one of the most charming small buildings in the region: the Church of Marmiroi. It is first mentioned in writing in 1307, and is usually dated to the 12th or 13th century, though some researchers place it as early as the 10th. Its plan is unusual, with no narthex, a feature it shares with churches in Bulgaria and the former Yugoslavia. It is protected as a Cultural Monument.
Its dedication makes the whole scene fall into place. The church is most likely dedicated to the Mother of God of the Life-giving Spring, a dedication given to churches built beside water. Stand at its door with the lagoon at your side, and you see why the builders chose this spot.
It pairs perfectly with Oricum, a short distance away: stones in the morning, birds and the little church in the softer afternoon light.
What you’ll see
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Herons in the shallows
Great egrets and grey herons stand motionless, and migrating waders stop to feed in spring and autumn.
Inside the church
Dark stone, with light falling through a small window below the dome.
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A small church with an unusual plan
It has no narthex, a feature it shares with churches in Bulgaria and the former Yugoslavia.
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The softer afternoon light
Stones at Oricum in the morning, then birds and the little church in the softer light of the afternoon.
Marmiroi and the lagoon in numbers
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1307
The first written mention of the church
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10th–13th century
The range of dates proposed for its building
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0 narthex
An unusual plan for a Byzantine church
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20 km
From Valza, about 40 minutes
Where it is
Where the plain of Orikum meets the first rocks of the Karaburun Peninsula, a short distance from Oricum.
What to bring
- Binoculars: egrets, herons and migrating waders in the shallows
- Camera with zoom: for birds standing motionless in the water
- Bird guide: to name the egrets, herons and waders
- Muted colours: so you do not startle the birds
- Modest clothing: for stepping into a small church
- Insect repellent: just in case near still water
- Water: for a relaxed hour or two
Is it worth it?
Yes, if…
you like quiet places: birds in the shallows, a tiny church and soft afternoon light, with Oricum close by.
Maybe not, if…
you want a big attraction: this is a quiet lagoon and one small church, about an hour, best combined with Oricum for half a day.
Come in spring or autumn for the birds, or late afternoon for the light, and check current prices and opening times before you go.
Combine it with
Continue exploring
More places and ideas for your days around Vlorë:
- Oricum Archaeological Park, Orikum
- All attractions around Vlorë
- Vlorë in autumn: a 3-day itinerary from Orikum to Labëria
- Archaeological sites in Vlorë: Amantia, Orikum, Kanina and ancient Aulona
- Where to stay in Vlorë: our complete guide
