A hidden valley inland from Vlorë, with a lost mosaic, a late Roman fortress and caves in the hills.
The Smokthina valley lies inland from Vlorë and holds three things: the site of a 6th-century basilica at Mesaplik, whose famous floor mosaic now hangs in Tirana, the walls of Boder Fortress, a late-antique stronghold, and the Boder Caves in the hills nearby. Allow half a day, in spring or autumn.
What lay beneath Church Hill?
In spring 1978, villagers in Mesaplik were digging the foundations of a new house when they struck something older. Beneath a spot still called Bregu i Kishës, “Church Hill”, lay the outline of an early Christian basilica from the first half of the 6th century: three aisles, a single eastern apse, about 13.8 by 11 metres, later destroyed by a great fire.
Its floor had been covered in mosaic, birds, fish, flowers and fruit made of tiny stone tesserae. It was lifted in 1980 and is no longer here; its most famous panel now hangs in the National Historical Museum in Skanderbeg Square, Tirana. It shows a man in a pointed hood beside the word APARKEAS, and nobody agrees on what it means. The name of the north wind? The god Abraxas? An Albanian phrase? The church’s founder, or even Emperor Justinian? At Mesaplik, only parts of the walls remain, but standing on Church Hill, you are standing where that mystery began.
Not far away, on a hill on the left bank of the Smokthina River, rise the walls of Boder Fortress, a late-antique stronghold about 270 metres around, its south wall still up to 4 metres high, with one surviving tower. And in the hills nearby are the Boder Caves: one large cave and two or three smaller ones.
What you’ll see
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Church Hill
At Mesaplik only parts of the walls remain, on a spot still called Bregu i Kishës.
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The mystery of APARKEAS
The famous panel, now in Tirana, shows a man in a pointed hood beside this word, and nobody agrees on what it means. On Church Hill you stand where that mystery began.
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Boder Fortress
A late-antique stronghold on the left bank of the Smokthina River, its south wall still up to 4 metres high, with one surviving tower.
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The Boder Caves
One large cave and two or three smaller ones, in the hills nearby.
Mesaplik and Boder in numbers
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1978 spring
Villagers digging the foundations of a new house strike the basilica
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1980 year
The mosaic is lifted; it is no longer at Mesaplik
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13.8 × 11 metres
About the size of the basilica, with three aisles and a single eastern apse
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270 metres
Roughly the distance around Boder Fortress, whose south wall is still up to 4 metres high
Where it is
Inland from Vlorë, in the Smokthina valley: the basilica at Mesaplik, and Boder Fortress on the left bank of the Smokthina River.
What to bring
- Sturdy shoes: ruined walls and a hill fortress
- Offline map: a hidden valley inland
- Headtorch: for the Boder caves
- Water: for a half-day outing
- Sun hat: for an open valley and hilltop ruins
- Camera: Boder walls up to 4 metres high and one tower
- Snack: a quiet valley, away from the crowds
Is it worth it?
Yes, if…
you like history, exploring and places without crowds, and are happy to stand where a famous mosaic was found.
Maybe not, if…
you want to see the mosaic itself: it was lifted in 1980 and now hangs in a museum in Tirana, and at Mesaplik only parts of the basilica’s walls remain.
Free to visit. The best seasons are spring and autumn.
Combine it with
Continue exploring
More places and ideas for your days around Vlorë:
- All attractions around Vlorë
- Vlorë in autumn: a 3-day itinerary from Orikum to Labëria
- Archaeological sites in Vlorë: Amantia, Orikum, Kanina and ancient Aulona
- Where to stay in Vlorë: our complete guide
