The Julius Caesar Trail: from Llogara to Palasë

Palasë beach and the blue Ionian Sea seen from high on the Llogara mountainside

A steep path from the mountains to the sea, on the coast where Caesar is said to have landed his army.

The Julius Caesar Trail is a marked but not heavily maintained path that drops about 950 metres down the steep Ionian face of the Ceraunian Mountains, from near the Llogara Pass to the bay of Palasë. It takes several hours, is moderate to hard, and suits experienced walkers and history lovers.

A walk down into the year 48 BC

Stand at the top of this trail, near the Llogara Pass, and below you there is nothing but mountainside, sea and the bay of Palasë far down at the water’s edge. The path drops about 950 metres in all, down the steep Ionian face of the Ceraunian Mountains, with the coast in view almost from the first step.

Its name recalls one of the great gambles of Roman history. In January 48 BC, in the middle of the civil war against Pompey, Julius Caesar crossed the Adriatic in winter from Brundisium with seven legions and landed at a place the ancient writers call Palaeste. The most widely cited identification is the modern village of Palasë, based on the name and on the old descriptions of the coast, though some researchers place the landing further north, in the Bay of Vlorë.

Whichever beach it was, the coastline you walk down is the one Caesar’s fleet would have seen as it came in, and soon after landing he had taken Oricum, on the other side of these mountains. Picture the ships in the winter sea below, and the descent becomes a walk into the year 48 BC.

The trail is marked but not heavily maintained. Wear sturdy shoes, carry water, and arrange a pickup in Palasë unless you plan to climb back up.

What you’ll see

  1. The top of the trail

    Near the Llogara Pass, with nothing below but mountainside, sea and the bay of Palasë far down at the water’s edge.

  2. The long coastline of Drymades and Palasë beaches seen from the slopes of Llogara

    The long coast

    Drymades and Palasë beaches seen from the slopes of Llogara, with the coast in view almost from the first step.

  3. The steep descent

    About 950 metres in all, down the steep Ionian face of the Ceraunian Mountains.

  4. The winter sea of 48 BC

    Picture the ships in the winter sea below, and the descent becomes a walk into the year 48 BC.

The Caesar Trail in numbers

  • 950 metres

    Of descent from near the pass to the sea

  • 48 BC

    Caesar lands at Palaeste in January

  • 7 legions

    Carried across the Adriatic in winter

  • 42 km

    From Valza to the trailhead, about 55 minutes

Where it is

Down the Ionian face of the Ceraunian Mountains, from near the Llogara Pass to the bay of Palasë.

What to bring

  • Sturdy shoes: a steep path that is not heavily maintained
  • Walking poles: 950 metres of descent is hard on the knees
  • Water: carry plenty for a steep, long descent
  • Sun hat: summer midday heat is best avoided
  • Swimsuit and towel: the trail ends at the water’s edge
  • Taxi number: to arrange a pickup in Palasë
  • Offline map: marked, but not heavily maintained

Is it worth it?

Yes, if…

you are an experienced walker who likes history with your hiking, and you want a long descent with the coast in view almost from the first step.

Maybe not, if…

you want a gentle stroll: the descent is steep, the trail is marked but not heavily maintained, and you need a pickup in Palasë unless you plan to climb back up.

Check current trail conditions before you set out.

Combine it with

Continue exploring

More places and ideas for your days around Vlorë:

Frequently asked questions about the Julius Caesar Trail


How long does the Julius Caesar Trail take?

Several hours, so check current trail conditions before you set out. The path drops about 950 metres in all, with the coast in view almost from the first step. Arrange a pickup in Palasë unless you plan to climb back up.


Where did Julius Caesar land in 48 BC?

In January 48 BC, during the civil war against Pompey, Caesar crossed the Adriatic in winter from Brundisium with seven legions and landed at a place the ancient writers call Palaeste. The most widely cited identification is the modern village of Palasë, though some researchers place the landing further north, in the Bay of Vlorë.


How hard is the Julius Caesar Trail?

Moderate to hard, with a steep descent. The trail is marked but not heavily maintained, so wear sturdy shoes and carry water. It suits experienced walkers and history lovers, and spring and autumn are the best seasons; avoid the midday heat in summer.


How do you get to the Julius Caesar Trail from Valza?

The trailhead is near the Llogara Pass, 42 km from Valza Boutique Hotel in Uji i Ftohtë, about 55 minutes by car. The trail ends at the bay of Palasë, so arrange a pickup there unless you plan to climb back up to the pass.


Sources

  1. Julius Caesar, The Civil War (Bellum Civile), book III, chapters 6–11 — the winter crossing from Brundisium, the landing at Palaeste among the Ceraunian rocks and the surrender of Oricum.
  2. A. Trushaj, G. Elezi, “The City of Orik in the Writings of Ancient Authors and Archaeological Records”, Folia Archaeologica 39 (2024), online — Caesar’s landing and the taking of Oricum in 48 BC.
  3. Parks Dinarides, National Park Llogara — the park the trail crosses.

Drymades and Palasë beaches from above. Photo: Albinfo, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Photo: Liridon, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons