A long mountain day from Valza: the springs of Kuç, the deep canyon of Nivica and the turquoise Peshtura waterfall.
Kurvelesh is the high limestone country of inland Labëria, south-east of Vlorë. In one day from Valza you can see the springs of Kuç, Nivica Canyon, a protected natural monument up to 200 metres deep, and the two-stage Peshtura waterfall near Progonat. It is a full day of driving and short walks, best with a 4×4.
Where does Labëria keep its water?
Drive up the Shushica valley from Vlorë and the road climbs into Kurvelesh, a high country of bare limestone where the rain disappears into the rock and comes back as springs. Kuç, at about 620 metres under a crown of mountains, sits on some of the richest water in the south: the area counts about 160 water sources, and the springs of Kuç are among the largest karst springs of southern Albania.
Further on, the same water has cut Nivica Canyon. The canyons run for about 8 km and in places drop 200 metres, with small caves in the cliffs and seasonal waterfalls on their walls. They have been declared a Natural Monument, and the village of Nivicë, on the rim, is the place for the view down.
Twenty minutes beyond, near Progonat, Peshtura waterfall falls in two stages into a pool of bright turquoise water, then slips on through the rock. The water is very cold, even in summer.
Kurvelesh as a day trip from Valza
Leave Uji i Ftohtë early. The road through the Shushica valley takes about an hour and twenty minutes to Kuç, where the springs are the first stop. From Kuç to Nivicë it is about 17 km of mountain road, around 30 minutes, and this is the stretch where a 4×4 is needed. Nivicë to Progonat is another 11 km, about 20 minutes. The way back runs through Tepelenë on asphalt, about 126 km and two hours to Valza.
Our tip: if you go up through Kuç, stop for the springs on the way in, and plan lunch at one of the agriturismi in Kuç or around Tepelenë. Without a 4×4, drive to Nivicë the long way, through Tepelenë, about 137 km and 2 hours 20 minutes from Valza.
What you’ll see
The springs of Kuç
A village under a crown of mountains, with water rising out of the rock.
Nivica Canyon
Walls up to 200 metres high, with seasonal waterfalls down the cliffs.
Old stone bridges
Small arched crossings over the streams around Nivicë.
Peshtura waterfall
Two stages of water and a turquoise pool, a short rocky walk from the road.
Kurvelesh in numbers
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200 metres
Depth of Nivica Canyon in places
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8 km
Length of the canyons
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160 sources
Of water counted around Kuç
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620 metres
The altitude of Kuç
Where it is
In the mountains of Kurvelesh, between the Shushica valley and Tepelenë: Kuç in Himarë municipality, Nivicë and Progonat in Tepelenë municipality.
What to bring
- Full tank: there are few fuel stops in the mountains
- Hiking shoes: narrow, rocky paths to the canyon and the falls
- Water: long stretches without shops
- Snacks: in case lunch is later than planned
- Swimwear: for a very short, very cold dip at Peshtura
- Light layer: the air is cooler up in Kurvelesh
- Offline map: the phone signal comes and goes
Is it worth it?
Yes, if…
you want wild mountains, canyons and waterfalls far from the beaches, and you do not mind a long day on the road.
Maybe not, if…
you have only one day by the sea, or no 4×4 and little time: the long way round through Tepelenë adds hours.
Go in dry weather: wet rock makes the paths slippery.
Combine it with
Continue exploring
More places and ideas for your days around Vlorë:
- All attractions around Vlorë
- Inside roads of Vlorë: the hinterland beyond the coast
- The Written Cave of Lepenicë
- Where to stay in Vlorë: our complete guide
