Sazan Island: From Ottoman Outpost to Cold War Fortress

The pebble shore of Shën Nikolla Bay on Sazan Island, with pine-covered slopes and deep blue sea

The island you see from the Lungomare: for 33 years Italian, then a fortress of the Cold War.

Sazan is Albania’s largest island, about 5.7 square kilometres of limestone at the entrance to the Bay of Vlorë, where the Adriatic meets the Ionian. Italian from 1914 to 1947 and later a Cold War fortress, it is still a military zone, so visits are by boat as day trips only.

The island that changed hands like a chess piece

Every evening, from the Lungomare, Sazan sits on the horizon at the mouth of the bay, a long low silhouette between two seas. It is Albania’s largest island, about 5.7 square kilometres of limestone where the Adriatic meets the Ionian, and its position has made it coveted for more than two thousand years. In 1264 Venetian and Genoese fleets fought a naval battle off its shores; by the 15th century the Ottomans kept a naval outpost here.

Then came the 20th century, and Sazan changed hands like a chess piece. Italy occupied it on 30 October 1914, Albania formally ceded it in 1920, and it came back only with the Paris Peace Treaty of 1947. For thirty-three years, the island that faces Vlorë’s seafront was Italian territory.

What followed was even stranger. Under Enver Hoxha, with Soviet help in the early years, Sazan became one of the most fortified places in the country: bunkers, command posts, depots and tunnels for submarines. Today they stand abandoned, slowly being taken back by the vegetation. It is eerie, beautiful and unlike anywhere else on this coast.

Sazan lies within the Karaburun–Sazan Marine Park and is still a military zone, so visits are by boat as day trips only, without overnight stays.

What you’ll see

  1. The view from the Lungomare

    Every evening Sazan sits on the horizon at the mouth of the bay, a long low silhouette between two seas.

  2. The southern cape of Sazan Island and its lighthouse, seen from the sea

    The southern cape

    The southern cape of Sazan and its lighthouse, seen from the sea.

  3. Bunkers and tunnels

    Bunkers, command posts, depots and tunnels for submarines, abandoned and slowly taken back by the vegetation.

  4. A day by boat

    Sazan is still a military zone: visits are by boat as day trips only, without overnight stays.

Sazan in five dates

  1. 1264

    Venetian and Genoese fleets fight a naval battle off its shores.

  2. 15th century

    The Ottomans keep a naval outpost on the island.

  3. 30 October 1914

    Italy occupies Sazan.

  4. 1920

    Albania formally cedes it to Italy.

  5. 1947

    It comes back to Albania with the Paris Peace Treaty.

Sazan in numbers

  • 5.7 km²

    Area of Albania’s largest island

  • 4.8 × 2 km

    Length and width of the island

  • 33 years

    Italian, from 1914 to 1947

  • 1264

    The Venetian–Genoese naval battle off its shores

Where it is

At the entrance to the Bay of Vlorë, between the Adriatic and the Ionian, visible from the Lungomare and from the hotel’s coast.

What to bring

  • Sturdy shoes: bunkers and tunnels among the vegetation
  • Long trousers: plants are taking back the old bunkers
  • Windproof layer: open water where two seas meet
  • Sun hat: for a half or full day out
  • Water: for a day trip with no overnight stay
  • Camera: abandoned command posts and tunnels

Is it worth it?

Yes, if…

you like places with layers of history, from a naval battle in 1264 to a Cold War fortress, and want a half or full day at sea.

Maybe not, if…

you hope to land and stay: Sazan is still a military zone, so visits are by boat as day trips only, without overnight stays.

Go on a calm day, and check current boat trip prices and visiting rules before you go.

Combine it with

Continue exploring

More places and ideas for your days around Vlorë:

Frequently asked questions about Sazan Island


Can you visit Sazan Island?

Yes, by boat as day trips only. Sazan is still a military zone, so there are no overnight stays. Boats leave from Vlorë and Orikum, and the trip takes half or a full day. Check current boat trip prices and visiting rules before you go.


Why was Sazan Italian?

Italy occupied the island on 30 October 1914 and Albania formally ceded it in 1920. It came back only with the Paris Peace Treaty of 1947, so for thirty-three years the island that faces Vlorë’s seafront was Italian territory. The island’s position has made it coveted for more than two thousand years.


What is on Sazan today?

Under Enver Hoxha, with Soviet help in the early years, Sazan became one of the most fortified places in the country. Its bunkers, command posts, depots and tunnels for submarines now stand abandoned, slowly being taken back by the vegetation.


When is the best time to visit Sazan?

Calm days from late spring to early autumn. The island lies within the Karaburun–Sazan Marine Park, and the visit takes half or a full day by boat. It suits history lovers, curious travellers and photographers. Check current boat trip prices and visiting rules before you go.


Sources

  1. L. Kashta et al., “The first MPA in Albania, Sazani Island – Karaburuni Peninsula”, Varstvo Narave 25 suppl. 1 (2011), on dLib — size (4.8 × 2 km, 5.7 km²), limestone geology and the marine park.
  2. U.S. Department of State, Foreign Relations of the United States, 1946, vol. IV, document 182 — the Italian occupation from October 1914 and the island’s status before the 1947 treaty.
  3. Wikipedia – Italian post in Saseno and Battle of Saseno (1264) — the naval battle, the 1920 Treaty of Tirana and the transfer of 10 February 1947.

The southern cape of Sazan. Photo: Albinfo, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Cover photo: Hotolmo22, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons